geordie's old stomping grounds (Gallup, NM)

we both really enjoyed the drive west that evening, and were speechless most of the time taking in the landscape around us. there were moody clouds hanging over the endless mesas and painted rock hills and jagged mountains. the fields were glowing green (from the moody light), and we seemed to be chasing trains all afternoon.

we arrived in Gallup, NM just as the sun was setting, and watched the rocks around us glow as if they were in fire. not too shabby!

after a few moments to relax (one of the only nights we arrived at the hotel by 7pm!), we contacted our buddy Geordie who grew up around Gallup for a dinner recommendation. he sent us on our way to "Virgie's" for some authentic new Mexican food. It wax a really laid back local kind of place, and Kate and were both thrilled to get some delicious food smothered in new Mexican green chiles. really hit the spot.

Geordie had also sent us with a cryptic message to ask for the owner of the place, and let him know that he owed Geordie $15. we were a bit suspicious of the message, but figured we had to deliver it. ha. Charlie Chavez, the owner, came out to chat with us, and we all had some good laughs, at geordie's expense, of course. it was delightful to be so welcomed at a place so far from anywhere we knew! :) and Charlie was clear about the fact that there wasn't a shot in hell Geordie was gonna get the $$ (old inside joke, apparently! ha).

Acoma ("sky city")

about an hour west of Abq, we made a little detour south to see Acoma, otherwise known as "sky city". sky city is a native American pueblo located high atop a Mesa that has been occupied since the 13th century. it is still an active community, and you have to take special tours up there, and out of respect, you can not take pictures of the pueblo without permission (a paid permit).

unfortunately, we arrived 30 minutes after the last tour of the day, but it was well worth the detour to see the amazing landscape.

the stunning desert landscape was really unfolding in front of our eyes throughout the entire day, and Kate and I were both awed and blown away. Kate, being here for the first time, and me, overwhelmed with the feeling I was returning home to the west I have grown to love so much.

lunch in Santa Fe, NM

from Abq, we drove north to Santa fe to wander around for a few hours. when planning the trip, I had grand plans to make it up to Taos, and out to the four corners on the way to arizona... but we quickly realized we had to make some decisions, and let go of some of the more distant places. we have been traveling pretty fast, and packing a lot in as it is!

but anyhow... Santa fe is too beautiful to miss, so we made the trek. we arrived around mid-day, and wandered the old town square, and admired all the native American crafts at the governors market. we found a little place with a balcony above the square to get some lunch, and cool off for a few. it was a hot hot day, and scorching in the sun!

after browsing some more shops and outdoor markets, we loaded back into the car, on our way to the western border of new Mexico and Arizona.

petroglyph national monument

the petroglyph national monument is just outside if Albuquerque, so we decided to get an early start and check out the park (before it got super hot).

we began at the little visitors center (I was bummed there was no program or movie, ha.), and learned there were several self-guided hikes we could take. we opted for the one that was a little longer, opposed to hopping in and out of the car at designated sights.

it was interesting to hike into the canyon, and discover the petroglyphs in the hills. nothing is marked, so you need to keep your eyes on the rocks. it was also nice to walk for a little bit, as the road trip has really been mostly time in the car! we discovered what we could until it was just getting too hot, and returned to the air conditioned car. ;)

rolling into Albuquerque

we had a good chunk of miles to travel from Amarillo, but crossed another timeline, so managed to arrive at the hotel by 8pm. this was early for us for us! our days have been filled end to end, and we have been settling in late.

we look on yelp a bit, and looked online for someplace to walk around and grab a bite to eat. it was after 8pm, but figured since it was Friday night it shouldn't be a problem. our hotel was close to old town, but when we asked the lady at the front desk, she recommend we head to central street in downtown. sounded good. short drive, we parked near a lot of places, and walked. turns out it was a big clubbing and bar district, and it was a strange scene. some people roaming, but not a ton. mostly clubs / bars. no good looking food to speak of. we decided to get out of there, and head to a brewery somewhere north.

the "chama river brewery" was a bit tricky to get to, but worth the trouble. the food was outstanding, and c were also pretty tasty. Kate had the really rich stout (even I liked it!). , and I had the Jackalope IPA and Hopricot. both very tasty! :)

Cadillac ranch

after lunch, we walked around a few blocks on 6th street, along old route 66. there were some awesome vintage and antique stores. It was a mixed blessing that we don't have room in the car for too much stuff!

just outside of Amarillo, there is one of America's quintessential roadside stops... the Cadillac ranch. a field on the side of the highway with 8 old Cadillacs doing nose dives into the ground. the cars are covered in spray paint, and everyone who visits seems to leave their mark. some folks leaving as we arrived gave us 2 cans of spray paint, and kate and I dove in!

from the highway it doesn't look like much, but up close the cars are pretty cool, and it really was a ton of fun to spray away anywhere we liked! :) there aren't too many places in the world that encourage this kind of behavior. i felt like a rebel. ha.

big Texas!

rolled into Amarillo around lunch time, and the nice man at the visitors center gave us some recommendations for lunch. while we try to avoid the tourist stops as much as possible, there was a new microbrewery operating at the "big Texas"... and I couldn't resist. it was all tourist and then some, so we opted to sit at the bar, and enjoyed some big steak sandwiches for lunch washed down by the "rattlesnake IPA , which was quite tasty.

the bar was right next to the shooting gallery, so before we hit the road again, I had to shoot some stuff. ;)

driving day... OK-TX-NM

in the planning, we knew we were going to have to put in a fairly dedicated day of driving to cross from the south east into the south west. today was the day. we gave ourselves a little bit of a slower morning to catch up on some rest, then just hit the road. we made it into TX around noon, and the landscape was big and flat!

AR to OK

after our visit to the refuge, we were hot and sweaty, and were ready to settle into the air conditioned car to make some miles west.

we meandered down the scenic routes in AR for a while, then committed to interstate 40 west for the haul to Oklahoma City. an audio book of david sedaris' "me talk pretty one day" kept us company, and amused for much of the trip. we made a quick stop on the road for subway sandwiches, and rolled into OKC pretty late, but managed to find a brewpub for one beer before turning in. long day, I was definitely road tired!

turpentine wildlife refuge, AR

just south of eureka springs, Kate had found a really Interesting place to stop called the "turpentine wildlife reserve". their mission is to save "big cats" that are being mistreated or need permanent homes. there were over 100 lions, tigers, panthers, bobcats, leopards, as well as a few bears.

it is a mix of emotion to see these animals in cages and contained outdoor spaces, but very heartwarming to hear all of their stories, and know that the love and care they are getting in this place far surpasses their other options. these are all animals that are not able to live in the wild due to human interaction in their lives, so some space to run, buddies, and 10+lbs of fresh meat a day doesn't seem like such a bad second.

we took a guided tour around the refuge, and the staff was really knowledgeable about the animals, and seemed to have such a connection to all their personalities. really a special place!

My God is Bigger Than Your God

How many of you know that one of the largest statues of Jesus in the world is located in Eureka Springs, Arkansas? We didn't either, but as soon as we learned that Christ of the Ozarks looms over a town that we were going to visit anyhow, we didn't hesitate. Standing at the base of this collosus feels like nothing so much as visiting a pagan temple dedicated to Poseidon, but without the sacrificial goats. Idols, schmidols.

I'll say this--Christ o'Ozarks enjoys a great view from where He stands. The drive on the back roads from Mountain Home to Eureka Springs must be some of the prettiest country in the great state of Arkansas. Eureka Springs itself is a resort town that profits from its beautiful landscape and a healthy influx of tourists. The town seems to be especially attractive to bikers, New Agers, and people who enjoy shopping for Christian casual wear (there are outlet shops to prove it). We had a fine lunch of Schiner Bock, as well as some food, at The Roadhouse, where their sign proudly advertises "Many have eaten here...few have died". Happily, we survived our lunch and made it to our next stop: Turpentine Creek Wildlife Refuge (aka Lions, Tigers and Bears in Northwestern Arkansas--Who Knew?)

bull shoals, AR

we stated our morning rolling out of mountain home, and drove along the lakes at bull shoals. there was a really new and informative info center, and views off of the porch of the lake, damn and the white river. a very nice view, but shocking to see how low the lake and river levels were. touted as a really big fishing area, the river was barely connected warm pools of muddy water.

from Paris, TN to mountain home, Arkansas

from Paris, we settled in for the long afternoon haul to mountain home, Arkansas. we opted for a little less direct route off the larger highway. Kate and I studied the maps, made some good notes (many if the roads here have multiple route numbers, and split often!)... then hit the road.

as we traveled farther west in TN, and across a sliver of Missouri, we began to see vast expanses of dried out corn fields. our first sightings of the draught the middle of the country is suffering. crossing the river into Arkansas, the sir was noticeable more humid, and we saw extensive fields of a bright green reedy grass kind of crop. neither if us were quite sure what it was, but the green was glowing!

as night fell, and we were winding up into the hills, we stopped to get dinner in a small town (Mexican again!) before everything closed down at 9pm).

rolled into the town of mountain home pretty late (after 10+$8. and we were both pooped!

Paris, TN

we were excited to roll into Paris tn, as our road guide told us there was not only a replica Eiffel tower in the town park, but a colossus catfish on the town sign commemorating the "the worlds largest catfish fry". we were a bit suspicious about the data behind that claim, but took our pictures anyhow. ;)

we drove into downtown Paris looking for a little local cafe or restaurant to get some lunch... but were sadly disappointed to find there were none in operation. :( all the restaurant business was fast food and chains on the other side of town by the strip malls. Kate found an online recommendation for the local Mexican place, and it suited us just fine.

land between the lakes, TN

from ft Donaldson, we continued driving west into the "land between the lakes state park". technically it was the lame between the cumberland and Tennessee rivers, which have since been damned and turned into lakes. we barely nicked the bottom if the park, but it was nice to get out and soak our feet in the lake for a moment. the water was fairly warm, and had a bit of slime (I'm a big wuss when it comes to lame slime! ha).

sitting on the dock, I watched egrets wading in the lily pads, and a great heron swooping along the surface of the lake looking for lunch.

speaking of lunch, it was time for us to carry on...